A2779 MacBook Pro Teardown: How to Disassemble the 14″ M2 – Full Guide

If your A2779 holds data you cannot lose, the smartest move is to protect the board first and repair second.

Your 14 inch MacBook Pro M2 (Model A2779) needs more than a simple battery swap and you want to see exactly what is inside before you touch a screw. A complete teardown of the A2779 MacBook Pro, from backplate and battery to logic board, Touch ID, fans, I/O ports, and top case.

This is not a quick unboxing or a highlight reel. It is a technician level teardown based on real work in the TEKDEP lab and the full video guide hosted by Nicholas on YouTube. Use it to understand how the A2779 is built, which parts are safe to remove, and where you must slow down if you want to avoid damage or data loss.

If at any point you feel this is beyond your comfort level, it is better to stop and hand the repair to a professional. Opening an A2779 is absolutely doable, but mistakes around the battery, flex cables, or logic board can be expensive.

About This A2779 Teardown Guide

This teardown is filmed and documented in TEKDEP’s professional repair lab in Los Angeles, California. TEKDEP is a physical business that focuses on:

• Component level MacBook logic board repair
• Professional Mac data recovery from liquid damage, no power, and other board faults
• Supplying tested parts and tools for technicians and advanced DIY users worldwide

Your host in the video is Nicholas, one of TEKDEP’s ValetTek Master Technicians. He performs these procedures daily on non working MacBook Pro A2779 machines that come in for repair, data recovery, or refurbishment.

In practice, that means:

• The steps you see here are not theory. They reflect our actual A2779 MacBook Pro teardown workflow, whether stripping for parts or preparing a top case assembly for sale.
• The parts referenced in this guide are the same parts we list on tekdep.com for internal repairs and for customers who want to buy genuine or carefully selected aftermarket components.
• The warnings and tips are based on real failures we see: ripped trackpad flex cables, lost PL1 screws that short displays, Touch ID buttons separated from their paired boards, and more.

This is an advanced teardown. It is written for technicians, repair shop owners, and experienced DIY users who want a clear map of the A2779 internals. If your goal is only to replace a battery or a display, you may prefer our dedicated single repair guides.

We design each guide around real failures we see in the lab, not around what looks nice in a thumbnail.

Tools and Parts Used in This Teardown

You do not need a full workshop, but you do need the correct tools. Using the wrong driver or prying tool is one of the fastest ways to strip screws or tear flex cables.

Essential Tools

These kits cover every screw and connector in the A2779 MacBook Pro teardown:

• 145 in 1 Steel Bit Precision Magnetic Screwdriver Tool Set
  This kit includes the required bits for this MacBook:
  • PL5 Pentalobe – backplate screws
  • PL1 Pentalobe – antenna bar screws
  • T3 Torx – many flex cable shields and small brackets
  • T5 Torx – trackpad, antenna, and other internal fasteners
  • T6 Torx – some logic board mounting screws
• 6 in 1 Steel Bit Precision Magnetic Screwdriver Tool Set
  Ideal as a compact kit for smaller follow up repairs or shop use.

You will also need:

• A plastic spudger or pry tool
• ESD wrist strap and grounded mat
• Tweezers for small screws and magnet trapped fasteners
• Screw tray or magnetic mat to group each screw type

Safety Before You Start

Before the first PL5 screw comes out, take a moment to plan for safety. The A2779 combines lithium ion cells, delicate flex cables, and ESD sensitive components.

“Modern MacBooks turn the logic board into both the brain and the hard drive. Treat it like it holds everything, because it does.”

Step 1 – Opening the Backplate and Organizing Screws

The teardown begins with the back case.

1. Flip the MacBook Pro A2779 upside down on your ESD mat.
2. Use a PL5 Pentalobe driver to remove the eight bottom case screws.
3. Note that there are two screw lengths:
   • The four screws along the top edge are longer.
   • The four screws along the bottom edge are shorter.
4. Group them on your mat in a top to bottom pattern that matches their original positions. This makes reassembly more intuitive.

Once the screws are out:

• Use a plastic pry tool on the right side to release the internal clips. You should feel and hear a small click when the hatch releases.
• Repeat on the left side.
• Slide your fingers under the bottom edge and lift gently to release the remaining clips.
• Push and pull the top and bottom edges slightly to slide the backplate off.

Take a moment to inspect the inside. This is a good time to visually check for liquid damage around the battery edges, logic board, or ports. If you see obvious corrosion, consider stopping and using professional repair and data recovery instead of continuing the teardown.

Step 2 – Trackpad Connector and Battery Flex Cable

Before you touch any other component, you must isolate power.

1. Identify the trackpad connector shield near the center bottom of the board.
2. Use a T3 driver to remove the trackpad connector screws and lift the shield.
3. Gently slide a plastic pry tool under the trackpad connector and lift it away from the board.

Under this area sits the main battery board to logic board flex cable.

• This cable has two locking latches and is a common failure point if rushed.
• Use your fingernail or a plastic tool to flip each latch up from the back.
• Slide the flex cable free with a slow, straight motion. Do not twist or bend it sharply.

Next, locate the pancake screw that secures the battery power connection:

1. Switch to a T5 driver.
2. Remove the pancake screw that locks the battery board connection.
3. Flip the small metal tab up.

At this point, the battery is electrically disconnected from the rest of the system.

To fully discharge residual power, open the lid slightly and press and hold the power button for about 10 seconds. This helps drain any remaining charge on the board and lowers the risk of accidental shorts.

Step 3 – Removing the Trackpad and Trackpad Flex Cable

The trackpad is mounted between the battery and the bottom case. It must be removed for safe battery replacement and to prevent flex cable damage when prying adhesive.

1. With the battery flex and trackpad connector already disconnected, grab your T5 driver again.
2. Remove all trackpad mounting screws. There are two types, so keep them grouped:
   • The majority are standard T5 trackpad screws.
   • A few have different heads that act like washers or isolators to help with haptic feedback.

Once all screws are removed:

• Slightly open the MacBook and let the trackpad drop down from the chassis.
• Gently route the trackpad flex cable through the opening.
• Lift the trackpad out of the device.

On the trackpad assembly you will see small circular spacers that act like washers. They are important for even click feel and haptic performance. Avoid losing them. If you plan to reuse your original trackpad, leave them in place.

To remove the trackpad flex cable:

1. Locate the small latch on the trackpad side connector.
2. Flip the latch up with a fingernail or plastic pry tool.
3. Gently peel away the adhesive and slide the flex cable out.

Trackpad flex cables are a frequent failure after DIY repairs because they are thin and often creased or torn. If you see any visible damage or kinks, plan to replace the flex cable with an A2779 trackpad flex cable 821 03214 A during reassembly.

Step 4 – WiFi Antenna Array and Display Assembly Removal

To remove the display assembly or replace the WiFi antenna, you will work across the center hinge area.

Start with the antenna and display related screws:

1. Use a T5 driver to remove the screws that hold the WiFi / Bluetooth antenna block in the center and on both sides.
2. Switch to the T3 driver and remove:
   • The small brackets that protect the display flex cables on top of the logic board
   • The screws around the WiFi antenna cables
   • The two T3 screws near the sleep / proximity sensor that tells the MacBook when the lid is closed

Next, remove the hinge protectors:

• Use the appropriate Torx driver (as used in the video) to remove the small hinge guards on the right and left. These keep the hinge and top case aligned and covered.

Then, address the PL1 Pentalobe screws:

• There are nine very small PL1 screws that secure the antenna bar to the top case.
• Carefully remove all nine and keep them away from magnets.
• These screws are often lost and can become trapped in the display magnets, which can later crack or short the display when the lid is closed.

Once the screws and shields are removed:

1. Use a plastic pry tool to separate the display flex cables from their connectors.
2. Gently lift the WiFi antenna bar and Bluetooth antenna assembly away from the top case. You only need to free the sections bonded to the top case itself.
3. Remove the hinge protectors that slide off together with the antenna bar.

Finally, remove the display hinges:

• Use a T8 driver to remove the six hinge screws, three on each side. They are larger and can be tight, so apply firm downward pressure and keep the bit straight to avoid stripping.

With the hinges free:

1. Lift the display carefully while supporting the flex cables.
2. Peel back any protective padding or foam that sits under the hinge area.
3. Open the display slowly while applying pressure to the hinges until the display separates cleanly from the top case.

You now have a standalone A2779 display assembly that can be replaced with a refurbished A2779 LCD display or reinstalled after you complete other internal repairs.

Step 5 – Logic Board Preparation and Removal

Many of the deeper repairs on the A2779, such as fan replacement, USB C port replacement, or full top case swaps, require complete logic board removal.

Removing Flex Cable Shields

Using your T3 driver, work systematically:

• Remove shields and brackets over:
  • Left side USB C port flex
  • Power button and Touch ID flex
  • Display and WiFi antenna connectors (already accessed earlier)
  • Sleep sensor
  • MagSafe 3 charging port
  • Right side USB C ports and headphone jack
  • Speaker, keyboard, and backlight connectors
  • Fan flex cables

Most shields are T3 and can be grouped together on the mat.

Disconnecting Flex Cables

With a plastic pry tool:

1. Disconnect the left USB C flex and small Touch ID / power button flex.
2. Disconnect the sleep sensor flex.
3. Disconnect the MagSafe 3 cable, both USB C connectors, and the auxiliary headphone jack flex.
4. Disconnect the pull tab style top case connector near the right side. Lift the tab, release the latch, and slide out the cable slowly.
5. Disconnect both speaker flex cables, each held in by a small latch.
6. Carefully release the fan flex cables, first breaking the light adhesive under them so you do not tear them.
7. Disconnect the large keyboard connector and the smaller backlight flex.

Take your time here. Many of these flex cables can be reused if you avoid bending or tearing them.

Logic Board Screw Map

The A2779 logic board is held by different sizes of Torx screws.

• T6 screws are found in several corners and near the center, often under plastic covers.
• Additional T5 screws secure the heatsink area and other parts of the board.
• Along the bottom of the logic board, there are:
  • Two larger T5 screws at the corners
  • Two smaller T5 screws in the center

Work from top to bottom:

1. Remove all visible T6 screws that secure the board and its small metal plates.
2. Remove plastic covers that hide four additional T6 screws and then remove those as well.
3. Remove the heatsink related T5 screws.
4. Remove the remaining T5 screws along the bottom edge of the board.

Never force a screw. If a screw feels wrong, double check that you are using the correct bit size.

Lifting the Logic Board

Before lifting:

• Push all flex cables gently away from the logic board so they will not snag or catch.
• Peel back any tape or tabs along the fan edges that overlap the board.

To remove the board:

1. Slide your pry tool carefully under the right edge of the logic board.
2. Lift slowly to create an angle while checking that no cables remain attached.
3. Lift the board to roughly a 40 to 45 degree angle so that the HDMI port side can clear its recess in the top case without bending.
4. As you lift, watch the small Touch ID flex channel near the top. Do not catch it or put pressure on it.

Once the HDMI port is clear, you can lift the logic board out completely.

At this point, your A2779 logic board is bare and accessible for board level diagnostics, replacement with a compatible A2779 logic board, or preparation for data recovery work.

Step 6 – Touch ID / Power Button Assembly

The Touch ID button on the A2779 is paired to its original logic board at the factory. They are a matched set. If you replace only one, Touch ID will not work.

TEKDEP logic boards for A2779 include the paired Touch ID sensor. If you are sourcing parts from elsewhere, make sure the logic board and Touch ID come as a pair.

To remove the Touch ID assembly:

1. With the logic board and display already removed, locate the Touch ID flex cable on the top case.
2. Use a plastic tool to gently peel the flex away from the top case, working slowly along the adhesive.
3. Use a T3 driver to remove the small T shaped protective bracket over the Touch ID area.
4. Remove the six T3 screws:
   • The two center screws connect the metal plate to the top case.
   • The four outer screws connect the plate to the Touch ID button itself.

When reassembling, you mount the plate to the Touch ID button first, then center the assembly and secure it to the top case. This ensures a clean, centered button feel and proper haptic response.

Feed the Touch ID button and flex through the opening in the top case and keep it together with its logic board so you do not accidentally mix matched components.

Step 7 – Fans, Speakers, and I/O Ports

With the logic board removed, the remaining components are easier to access.

Cooling Fans

Each fan is held by four screws:

• Three T3 screws
• One larger T5 screw on each side

Remove the T3 screws first, then the T5. Lift the fans out cleanly, noting their orientation and cable paths.

You can install A2779 left and right CPU cooling fans during reassembly if your original units are noisy or have bearing issues.

Speakers

The speakers sit deep in the top case and require logic board removal, but they are otherwise simple.

• Each speaker uses four screws, with a similar T3 + T5 pattern.
• Remove the screws, disconnect the speaker flex (if still present), and lift the speaker modules out.

If your A2779 has rattling or distortion at moderate volume, replacing the speakers with an A2779 aftermarket speaker set is often the cleanest fix.

USB C and Audio Ports

On the A2779, Apple moved away from permanently soldered I/O ports on the logic board. The USB C ports and headphone jack sit on small daughterboards.

To remove a USB C port module:

1. Use a T5 driver to remove the two screws holding the port board.
2. Gently slide the board out of the chassis.
3. Watch for any tension from the audio jack assembly on the right side and adjust if needed.

The headphone jack module is also held by a couple of T5 screws and can be removed in a similar way.

Be aware that screws around the charging area can be drawn towards the MagSafe magnet. Keep tweezers ready to pull screws away from the magnet if they jump during removal.

Step 8 – Full Top Case Assembly and When to Replace It

At this stage of the teardown, the A2779 top case is essentially bare:

• Keyboard still mounted
• Backlight layer under the keyboard
• Adhesive pads where the battery used to sit
• Mounts for speakers, trackpad, and other hardware

You can proceed to:

• Strip the keyboard and backlight for a dedicated keyboard replacement
• Install a fresh aftermarket A2519 battery
• Replace worn or damaged speakers and trackpad
• Or retire the chassis and install a complete A2779 top case assembly that already includes the keyboard, battery, microphones, and related hardware

In many shop scenarios, a complete top case assembly is the most cost effective and time efficient way to restore an A2779 that has liquid damage across the keyboard, palm rest, and trackpad area. Instead of spending hours on rivets and individual components, you transfer your known good logic board, display, and small modules into a pre populated top case.

A2779 Teardown Quick Reference – Screw Types And Drivers

This section is designed as a bookmarkable reference. Technicians, bloggers, and forum users can link here when explaining A2779 disassembly.

Area	Screw Type	Driver	Notes
Bottom case	PL5 Pentalobe, long/short	PL5	4 long at top, 4 short at bottom
Antenna bar	PL1 Pentalobe	PL1	9 very small screws, magnets attract them easily
Antenna block, some shields	Torx T5	T5	Connector block and side mounts
Flex cable shields (most)	Torx T3	T3	Trackpad, display, sleep sensor, Touch ID shields
Hinge protectors	Torx (model specific)	T5	Small guards above hinges
Display hinges	Torx T8	T8	6 large screws total
Trackpad screws	Torx T5	T5	Two slightly different types, keep grouped
Logic board corner and plate screws	Torx T6	T6	Under small plastic “security” caps
Logic board central and lower screws	Torx T5	T5	4 lower screws, 2 larger and 2 smaller
Fan screws	3 x T3 + 1 x T5 per fan	T3, T5	T5 screw is largest on each fan
Speaker screws	3 x T3 + 1 x T5 per speaker	T3, T5	Similar pattern to the fans
USB C and audio port boards	Torx T5	T5	2 screws each, near MagSafe magnet
Touch ID and power button plate	Torx T3	T3	6 screws plus 1 small T shaped bracket

Feel free to screenshot or print this table as your A2779 teardown cheat sheet.

Extra Knowledge – Failure Patterns We See On A2779 Boards

From TEKDEP’s MacBook repair and data recovery queue, some common A2779 issues include:

• No power after liquid spill near the left palm rest and USB C ports
  
• MacBook boots but shows no image after a DIY display swap with lost PL1 screw damage
  
• Trackpad and keyboard failures after aggressive battery removal
  
• Random shutdowns tied to damaged battery flex or corroded fan connectors
  
• Intermittent USB C charging due to worn or broken port boards
  

These are exactly the cases where:

• Having a complete teardown map avoids further damage.
  
• Using correct replacement parts from the A2779 parts category ensures a smooth MacBook Pro teardown without mismatched connectors or poor fit.
  

For more case studies and guides, check our Blog where we publish repair stories, diagnosis tips, and parts comparisons.

When To Use TEKDEP Mail In Repair or Data Recovery

You do not need to prove anything by finishing a risky teardown on a machine that holds important data.

Consider TEKDEP’s worldwide mail in repair service if:

• The MacBook does not power on or has obvious board level damage.
• You see corrosion or burn marks near power rails.
• The battery is swollen or physically damaged.
• You have already attempted a partial repair and are not comfortable going deeper.

Use TEKDEP’s MacBook data recovery service if:

• The logic board is dead and the MacBook holds data you cannot lose.
• Liquid damage occurred and the machine is unstable.
• You are thinking about board swaps but still need the original data.

For many users, the right path is a combination: send the A2779 to TEKDEP for diagnostics, data recovery, and repair, then use guides like this one for lighter future work when the risk is lower.

Frequently Asked Questions About A2779 MacBook Pro Teardown

How do I open the A2779 backplate?

Use a PL5 Pentalobe driver to remove the eight bottom screws. Remember that the top four screws are longer than the bottom four. Release the clips on the right and left with a plastic pry tool, then slide the backplate off by lifting and pushing carefully. Keep the screws grouped so you can match each one during reassembly.

How do I remove the trackpad connector on the A2779?

First disconnect the battery flex cable and pancake screw, then use a T3 driver to remove the small shield over the trackpad connector. Slide a plastic pry tool under the connector and lift straight up. Avoid twisting or levering from one corner only because that can crack the connector housing.

How do I safely disconnect the A2779 MacBook Pro battery?

After opening the backplate:

1. Remove the trackpad connector shield and disconnect the trackpad connector.
2. Flip up both latches on the battery board to logic board flex cable and slide it out.
3. Use a T5 driver to remove the pancake screw on the battery connector and flip up the metal tab.
4. Hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge residual power.

Once these steps are done, the battery is electrically isolated and the logic board is safer to handle.

How do I remove the A2779 trackpad?

With power disconnected and the trackpad connector removed, use a T5 driver to remove all trackpad mounting screws. Slightly open the MacBook so the trackpad can drop away from the palm rest. Route the flex cable through the opening and lift the trackpad out. Keep track of the small spacers that sit under some of the screws because they affect click feel.

How do I remove the antenna array and display assembly?

Remove the T5 screws on the antenna block, then all relevant T3 shield screws around the display cables and sleep sensor. Remove the nine PL1 Pentalobe screws that secure the antenna bar. Disconnect the display flex cables and lift the WiFi / Bluetooth antenna assembly out. Then remove the hinge guards and six T8 hinge screws. Support the display, open it to the correct angle, and lift it away from the top case.

How do I remove the logic board on the A2779?

After all display, antenna, battery, fan, speaker, keyboard, and port flex cables are disconnected and all shields removed, take out the T6 and T5 logic board screws, including any hidden under plastic covers. Gently lift the board from the right side to about a 40 to 45 degree angle, making sure the HDMI side clears its recess without bending. Keep all flex cables away from the edges while you lift.

How do I remove the Touch ID button?

With the logic board and display removed, peel the Touch ID flex away from the top case. Remove the T3 bracket above the button, then the six T3 screws that attach the plate and button. Lift the plate and button assembly through the opening. Keep the Touch ID sensor with its original logic board because they are paired and must stay together for Touch ID to work.

How do I remove the A2779 cooling fans and I/O ports?

Each fan is secured with three T3 screws and one T5 screw. Remove all four and lift the fan out. For the USB C ports and headphone jack, remove the T5 screws holding each small board, then slide the module out carefully. Watch for screws trying to stick to the MagSafe magnet near the charging area.

Final Thoughts – Using This A2779 Teardown The Smart Way

A full teardown of the 14 inch MacBook Pro M2 A2779 is a serious project, but with the right mindset it becomes a powerful tool:

• You understand exactly how Apple built the A2779.
• You know where the critical flex cables, sensors, and screws live.
• You can plan clean repairs for the display, battery, keyboard, fans, or ports.

Use this guide together with:

• The full teardown video on YouTube
• TEKDEP’s dedicated repair and data recovery services
• The parts catalog in the A2779 category
• Other step by step guides on the Tech Blog

Whether you are a shop owner building out your MacBook workflow or a serious DIY user tackling your first A2779, treat this page as your reference hub. Bookmark it, share it with your team, and link back to it whenever you need a verified teardown map of the MacBook Pro A2779.

If you decide the risk is not worth it for your own machine, that is also a smart decision.